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Now when it comes to treats they do have their preferences. Cash loves the crab snack I buy. He also loves dried sardines. If I pull one of those out Tweet is like “meh.” But if I go to get the crunchy treats, Tweet comes running. He lives his crunchies. Necco is happy with any of the above. Churu, though, they all love Churu and want it all to themselves. Sometimes I give each kitty their own churu and they STILL try and beg and steal more. YOU don’t take a cat for a walk. CAT takes you for a walk. Yes, you can teach the kitty to accept a harness and go for a walk. DONT think you have trained the kitty to follow you obediently like a dog? Walking a cat, even a full-grown cat, is more like walking an eight-week-old puppy. They go where ever the heck they want to and you follow along. Yes yes, cue all the people saying BUT MY CAT. . . . Count yourself lucky if your cat walks like a dog. It’s the exception NOT the rule. Cats are cats, not weird-sounding dogs. If you are going to take the kitty for walks. Make sure they are flea/tick treated and up to date on ALL vaccinations including rabies. You don’t want Kitty to tangle with something and end up in rabies quarantine. You also don’t want the kitty to come home infested with fleas or ticks. With both come internal guests which can make the kitty very sick.

She’s probably just afraid of going out; so simply install a kitty door, so she can get in and out when she wants to, and just let her explore on her own. I had 2 barn cats from a horse farm; since my midwestern wooded property naturally had vermin, and I had to teach them to hunt myself; but then they naturally took to it, and were hunting everything around the house, even those micro-mice that are almost impossible to keep out or catch. If this is a housecat, what you can do is get all your cats tested and vaccinated. However, if you do this, they do need to be separated till after the second dose booster. Also if money is tight, you could buy vaccines from a pet supply company as it is legal to give vaccines yourself in many states. Any negatives will test positive after a vaccine for a short time though. It does not do any good to vaccinate positives, but it won’t hurt them either. So vaccines alone can still prevent the spread. This will save you lots of money. Yes, you should quarantine your cat. A faint positive could mean that the cat might fight it off or not. But it is not ethical to risk other cats. Kittens are especially at risk. Put the cat in a room if you have to till after all are vaccinated. I know many people recommend keeping them apart even if vaccinated, but I have had experience with this and in my experience vaccines were very effective at preventing it even when being around FeLV-positive cats, but as I said you must wait till after the second booster and then an extra couple weeks is best. Kittens that are exposed almost always get it, but an adult cat usually fights it off, but never count on that. There is a new treatment called t-site. Not all vets know about it. Perhaps see if it is in your area. Google it. If you have to, quarantine in a cat playpen with a blanket over it at least till all are vaccinated. You should not let the FeLV-positive cat outside to infect others.

Because your kitty is your special friend, your baby. If your kitty is outside getting in fights with other cats, please think about keeping him inside, building him a “catio” or always being with him when he’s outside. We have two rescued cats. One was 8 weeks old when I adopted her, the other one was one year old at the time of adoption. My little girl was placed on a kitten diet of wet and dry food. That diet was changed to an adult diet of wet and dry food once she was one year old. My little boy was fed only dry food at the shelter. Once home with us, we placed him on the same diet as my little girl. I discuss their diet with their veterinarian at each visit. They are placed on a good quality diet and they are in very good health. It is important to feed your cat wet as well as dry food. Cats have a tendency to not drink much, so a water fountain, fresh water, and wet food are important for their good health. As far as taste, they will let you know if they don’t like their food! Some cats are quite picky others are not. Try different foods until you find the one they like. My little girl definitely prefers wet food. My little boy prefers dry food. I feed them wet food at breakfast and give them their portion of dry food that remains available to them through the day and night. They like to nibble on that. They each have their own food bowls. Most cats get their full growth by around 8 months, certainly by their first year. Kittens/young cats during that time. Adult cats for the next decade, give or take, and may start feeling their years after that. A well-cared-for house cat can make it to the late teens or early 20s. Cats are killing 4 billion songbirds a year. Yes “B” – “Billions”. They are opportunistic hunters and will kill whatever triggers them if they can. Letting your cat outside is also bad for your cat – they tend to run into things that kill them… like cars, dogs, hawks, etc. I’m talking about a lifespan that’s years shorter, on average. Now, if you want to teach your cat to press a button, look into “clicker training a cat” or “touch training” online. Nutshell… use a “clicker” to establish the immediate reward (it’s a “you done good” message), immediately followed by a tiny bit of treat. Once the cat is associating the click with the treat, add the touch stick and “Touch” command… once the cat is touching the stick on command (and getting rewarded each time with the click then treat), start having the cat move to the stick on command, and so on. You build complex behavior out of tinier individual steps.

Start with training the clicker/stick/treat relationship, then guide the cat onto a “doorbell” button. Gradually build that into the desired total behavior. Wouldn’t be hard to make a box w/ a button which opens a door, dispensing a treat. Then put the box in a doorway, with the rest of the doorway covered w/ a blanket, and introduce the concept of pressing the button, the door opens, and a cat can go through the box to the other room… much praise and treats. Once the cat has that, I’d add the actual cat door (if that’s your plan) to your “practice box”, and let the cat learn that it is still the “doorway box”, and once it’s hitting the button to go through, you’re golden. There are lots of online resources, or you can hit your local library. Go down to your local shelter, and ask to talk to the best cat trainer… get their advice. Before you get halfway down the training and discover you don’t want a cat… you want a dog! (Jk) If you want to let the cat out, then have it ring the doorbell and wait for you to let it in, then you are likely to end up saddened. Are you sure it is a stray? Some cats just like to wander. Put a FOUND note on a nearby lamppost (or similar) in case someone is looking for it.

Try leaving some cat food out for it. If it scoffs the lot and looks a bit weather-beaten leave a little food a few more mornings. See how hungry it seems. Some cats like to roam – and most are pretty good moochers! Is it wearing a collar? Will it let you approach? touch it? pick it up? If it seems well house trained – and some are known to have two “homes” at the same time I would just let puss decide for him/herself. GOOD LUCK Eileen It’s difficult to give a definitive answer to this question because, like us humans, all cats are unique personalities. However, as a rule of thumb, providing you give the new cat the space it needs to explore its new environment, two or three days should be enough for it to settle in. When entering a new environment, such as your home, a cat will usually seek out a safe place to hide, such as under a piece of furniture or high up on top of a wardrobe. Don’t attempt to capture it or bring it out to meet the family because this will just create more stress for the cat and it might lead to you getting clawed or hissed at. The cat will come out in its own time. During this settling-in time, you should ignore the cat and give it unfettered access to its new surroundings. You should take the cat’s food and water and place them somewhere easily accessible to the safe place it has chosen. After this, you should walk away and leave the cat to eat its food in peace.


During the first couple of days, it is normal for the cat to wail during the night. If this happens, you should go and sit somewhere near the cat to let it know that you are there and it is safe. It won’t take long for the cat to quieten down and associate you with safety and comfort, and it should soon come to you to introduce itself. When this happens, you should show it affection by petting it and then give it a treat or some food. It should be plain sailing from there. I would only do what the vet says. But if this is the crusty stuff inside the ears, try Vetericyn. That can help clear that out and make it easier to remove. There is no way to know because we don’t know what color the white cat really is. It’s very unlikely to be albino as true albino cats are exceptionally rare and they always have eyes that are light blue or very light blue with pinkish shading, depending on the form of albinism, which is not the same one as Siamese and pointed cats have.